Ginger Tops

Temperature inversions are rarely experienced when I seem to be on the fells – but today’s is a real, albeit brief, cracker.
Helen, I and Jarv (sans Milli due to sore paws) are approaching Fairfield summit from the south when the clouds lift, the sun beats down, and a bank of mist sweeping up from the right curls its way over the lip of the ridge.

Approaching Fairfield from Great Rigg

Down below us everything is bathed in… well…. gloom. We’re soon back in that very same cloud as we clamber down Fairfield towards Grisedale Tarn, Grasmere and the A591.
We’re doing the Long Distance Walkers Association’s ‘Fells, Tarns and Gingerbread’ route – a 21-mile circuit of Grasmere – so the refreshment stop at Ghyll Foot will have the usual supply of cake – in addition to the Grasmere gingerbread given at the end of the event. Greeted by young cheerleaders at the stop: ‘L-D-W-A, now you’re here, that’s the way’ - or something like that. It’s a nice touch.
On along the Greenburn valley, and it’s onto the ridge to Helm Crag. Reversing course back to the north, a sharp descent to the left takes us down to Far Easedale and then around Easedale Tarn.
A steep pull to the south of the tarn brings us onto Blea Rigg and then along on a twisting descent to High Close Youth Hostel. Here in the grounds you can just see the remains of the terraces where ginger was cultivated in the mid 19th Century.
Brought to Grasmere from China by The Rev F.G. Rogers in 1846, wild root ginger – well suited to the damp climate - was grown for several years as a cure for digestive complaints among the Lake District poets and other literary folk. But it was only with the assistance of a Mr A Stayre, of Red Bank, that the breadcrumb mixture was developed in January 1859, which, when combined with the ginger, allowed it to be easily transportable and gain a wider following outside of Westmorland. Root ginger cultivation ceased in 1878 due to the availability of cheaper imports, but production of gingerbread in Grasmere continues to this day. You won’t find any of this in the guidebooks… for a very good reason.
From the youth hostel, we take a steep final climb to the top of Loughrigg Fell (Helen says this bit put paid to her legs), which is followed by an equally steep descent, and then back along the road to Grasmere.
Time taken: seven hours. Gingerbread eaten: 12 pieces.